I was watching “Three colours, blue”by Krzyszof Kieslowski (I’ve been learning French since I moved countries for the love of my life) when I saw a scene which stopped my in my tracks, metaphorically speaking. Juliette Binoche sits in a cafe, pouring hot espresso over vanilla ice cream. She wears very little make up and a black, simple crew neck jumper. The image is simply striking. Later on, a neighbour wonders why does she live on her own “You aren’t the type to be dumped’ she muses.

And then I had “aha” moment. It wasn’t about a jumper, or the famous French no make up and “I lost my hairbrush three years ago” hair. It was her confidence and quiet self-possession which was so incredibly alluring. Her black jumper and minimal make up accentuated her personality by allowing it to take center stage.

I love when clothes do that. When they make me feel chic and stylish, and most important- confident. I couldn’t find any image from the movie so this one of Daria Werbowy for Celine is as close as it gets. She looks so strikingly simple yet sophisticated and confident. Everything I want to be when I grow up 😉

I’m going to tell you what really, really makes me angry in fashion. Apologies in advance if I sound like an angry lady- that’s because I am. I’ve been reading Business of Fashion recently and one article really stuck with me- one of the super cheap, super fast fashion labels announced a huge increase in revenue. We are talking millions upon millions. I’ve heard vaguely of this brand so I knew they were selling 100% polyester but to give them credit, I went online and checked. Yup, still there. Still selling polyester. Still destroying our planet. Thanks guys, you are awesome. Not.

It makes me angry that in today’s day & age, when we have so little time left to change the tide and the future of our planet, there are these brands who enrich themselves at our cost. Yes, it is our collective cost. You, I, our children we have right to clean water free of plastic particles, to clean air and fair wages. So, no thank you, I don’t want your £10 dress. It means for me that someone (our planet, other women) got hurt in the process.

I am totally, fully aware that not everybody can afford more expensive clothes. And that these brand exists because there is a consumer demand for cheap clothing. But I think that brands who have the power of money and platforms with millions of followers behind them, have a social responsibility to lead in shifting consumer mindset. They have a voice but only use it to enrich themselves. I wonder if these people have children? What sort of world will they leave them?

So ladies, its our call. We can change things around. We can buy less, buy better quality and get off the fast fashion carousel. There are so many natural, environmentally friendly fabrics out there. Things can get made locally (for me its Europe) for a fair wage. I’m ok with having one dress for a long time, providing it’s great cut and quality. There is something to be said about having trusted clothes that makes one look and feel amazing.

As for Instagram… I used to think that I needed to show new clothes all the time but actually, I was completely mistaken (I’m talking about my private account). My old cashmere jumper (which I’ve had for 8 years) and a silk skirt (4 years) got as many likes as a new dress. My followers wanted to see a consistent style, which got better when I actually stopped buying clothes.

Despite this title, a recent Dior campaign, where the fashion house gifted scores of influencers a re-issued saddle bag made it clear that an IT bag is alive and well. The bag promptly sold out and the photos of it flooded Instagram. Couple of years ago I would consider buying it. These days, I shudder at the thought of owning an an IT item of the season.

My bag collection is very small. I own a vintage Chanel 2.55, which I bought 11 years ago and two Celine bags, with no logo or hardware and only tiny, gold embossed letters. Blink and you miss them. As I know myself more and more, my taste takes me on a journey towards absolute simplicity- austerity almost. I cannot imagine myself wearing Ralph Lauren blazer with the brand’s recognisable logo. By the same token, Michael Kors bags are utterly lost on me.

My grandmother told me once that the ultimate luxury is only recognisable to a knowing eye. I now know what she meant and it has become my style motto.

I don’t buy anything these days because all my cash goes into development of my brand. But one day, when have disposable income again, I will buy two bags, which I love for their utter simplicity and elegance.

Zofia Chylak is a Polish brand who makes incredibly stylish yet utterly inconspicuous handbags. I owned some of her first creations and loved them. Granted, these days the waiting list for most of her bags is longer than from here to next week, yet because of lack of hardware and stunning elegance, they don’t feel like a coveted IT item of the season. There is no shiny logo dangling from a strap. A “crocodile” embossed small handbag which I have my eye on has a charm of a vintage Kelly, yet is totally contemporary. The other bag I’m coveting is Roma is by a British luxury brand, L.O.N.B. Again, it’s so elegant yet so discreet. It’s the opposite of being you face yet you would do a double take if you saw it on the street. Both are items I can easily see gifting my granddaughter one day, long after the excitement of Dior saddle bag had vanished.

It was very exciting and very, very nerve wracking. As I was waiting for Ana, our sample maker, anxiety was taking my brain hostage.  Has she understood my vision? And if so- will others believe my vision enough to want to be dressed by me?

Ana finally arrived and when she took out all three samples from her bag, I relaxed. Things were good. Samples she produced were exactly what I imagined. Yes, there are things to change but this was obvious- after all this was our first fitting.  Sleeves will be more t-shirt like rather than cap sleeves, and waist in two dresses will go slightly up. Sleeves in a third dress (not on the photo) will be little more dramatic. A lining under a skirt will create a slightly exaggerated, yet still wearable shape.

I wanted to create a small collection of desk to dinner dresses with clean, strong lines. Dresses for women who don’t wear frills or flowers. A woman on Instagram said she loved calmness of my line. I loved the comment so much-  for me it meant the she understood what I set out to create.

There is still a way to go for me. I’m waiting for a delivery of bamboo silk for final samples. I need to organise production, a website, packaging, promotion…But things are moving forward and it makes me very happy.

I have a conundrum every time I try on a shirt I’d like to buy. Do I leave the third button undone and have my breasts fully on show or do I do it up and look like a secretary on the way to the office?  I swear that not many brands actually consider where they place a third button. Mostly, I get that run of the mill, same cut, same old, sam old  which I don’t like because doing up the third button makes me look a little frumpy. I have one perfect shirt from St Lauren where the button in placed slightly lower and it creates that sexy, nonchalant look I covet on Instagram- and it’s actually wearable IRL (and I’m able to skirt the bra, too!).  It feels such a small but significant detail to attend to. Does anyone else have this problem or am I just being picky?